#5. The problem I am encountering is that normal needles do not have a large enough eye for the metal thread to go through. The ones that do, are too thick and unwieldy and tend to damage the fabric.
The other thing is, I don't necessarily want to couch this thread. The idea of passing thread is that you can pass it through your linen. I want to learn how it is done, and so far I have not found much information out there. Any useful tips will be much appreciated.
I read in my "Metal Thread Embroidery" book that there used to be a "round eye" needle precisely for this, but that they are not making them anymore. However, since people continue embroidering with metals, I suppose that they are solving the problem some other way.
ballistabob tells me that he has a needle among his leatherworking supplies that is thin and has a large eye. I intend to give it a try. But I would like to hear what other people are doing too. I have never embroidered with metals, so this is a new adventure for me.
On other news, I went through my "Dressing the Rapier Fighter" paper, and I realize that it needs to be updated big time. Holy cow! I have really moved away from many of the things that I used to recommend in that class, since I have discovered better ways to make rapier armor that is both functional and cool.
It will take me a while since I basically need to re-write the whole darned thing, but it will be done. Preferably before the end of the year.
Definitely, no rest for the wicked.
Hey guys, gotta question for embroiderers out there. What type of needle does one use for metal thread embroidery? I am talking about passing thread The other thing is, I don't necessarily want to couch this thread. The idea of passing thread is that you can pass it through your linen. I want to learn how it is done, and so far I have not found much information out there. Any useful tips will be much appreciated.
I read in my "Metal Thread Embroidery" book that there used to be a "round eye" needle precisely for this, but that they are not making them anymore. However, since people continue embroidering with metals, I suppose that they are solving the problem some other way.
On other news, I went through my "Dressing the Rapier Fighter" paper, and I realize that it needs to be updated big time. Holy cow! I have really moved away from many of the things that I used to recommend in that class, since I have discovered better ways to make rapier armor that is both functional and cool.
It will take me a while since I basically need to re-write the whole darned thing, but it will be done. Preferably before the end of the year.
Definitely, no rest for the wicked.
- Current Mood:
Obsessing
Comments
the other advantage to the larger hole is that most metal threads - regardless of whether you use real precious metals or the modern mylar counterparts - are foil strips wrapped around a core thread. if the hole in the base linen is tight because you're using a thin needle, you're going to put an enormous amount of pressure on the foil as you pull it through the linen, and eventually strip the foil right off the core. the only really effective way to avoid this problem is to use a larger hole that you can "repair" afterwards; it's a little bit of tedium when finishing, but easier to manage in the long run than constantly stripping your threads because you've been fighting them through a too-tight hole. plus you won't have damaged the base fabric in the process by rupturing the linen with a sharp needle.
Second, when I couch, I never use metal as the couching thread, only as the thread which is to be couched. I couch with silk. I have used tapestry needles for the metal thread (some are blunt, but I have also used sharpe ones). If you have any questions, I can show you on Thurday what I'm talking about.
I think that Much_Ado has clarified this for me. ;-)
Sorry, don't have a LJ for way too many stupid reasons.
BTW, who are you?
BTW, where is the Japanese Embroidery Center and, do they have a webpage? Just in case I need to purchase more needles.