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6 Random Things

Okay, I was tagged by courtney_d_h, so here goes

6 Random Things...

(Once you've been tagged, you have to write six random things about yourself. Then tag six more people and list their names.)

1. I am the oldest of three siblings: Me, my sister and my brother.

2. I am old enough to clearly remember watching "Captain Kangaroo" on TV, and those were not re-runs!

3. For that matter, I do remember when color TV first came on. My favorite show in color? Batman, of course.

4. All of my baby teeth had to be extracted. Why? Because all of my baby teeth had adult roots and would not fall off. (Which goes to prove that I am a mutant freak.)

5. I can do the Macarena to anything!

6. My dad was a professional bullfighter in his young days (it takes a lot of cojones to go against 500lb of angry bull armed with nothing but a pair of banderillas) He gets a kick at the fact that I fight rapier.

Okay, next tag: ballistabob, carthew, psallite, geoffreyapclwd, tirloch, elizabethmafia



( 6 comments — Leave a comment )
Sep. 26th, 2006 02:00 am (UTC)
hey belphoebe, is there any documentation for the standard fencing gear of poofy shirt and sleeveless doublet or jerkin?

i've found a few examples of sleeveless jerkins, but they were all meant to be worn over sleeved doublets, and i've found a few sleeveless doublets but it looks like they had separate sleeves that were tied on.

i'm trying to avoid fitted long sleeves... any suggestions?
Sep. 26th, 2006 01:49 pm (UTC)
Actually, the sleeveless doublet is indeed a jerkin, meant to be worn over an actual doublet.

I make my winter doublets sleeved, and my summer sleeveless, in the understanding that sleeveless is not accurate for an actual doublet but that I have no intention of roasting myself in the summer heat.

Taking into account that the weather was a lot colder in period, and that we are roasting over here at 100 degrees with 90% humidity, I think that we can be forgiven. (Heck, even the Spanish Conquistadores had to ditch much of their armor during the conquest of Mexico due to the unbearable heat.)

However, if you are trying to make a reproduction for A&S, you definitely need the sleeves.

Now, one of the solutions that some people have found for the heat factor is to wear their sleeved linen doublet without a sleeved shirt underneath. They make some sort of linen T-Shirt instead and a falling band on the collar. It looks very nifty and you avoid all the layering -- and heat -- in the sleeves.

I don't do that, because I feel that the poofy linen sleeves keep me cooler than the narrow doublet sleeves. But that's me. (These days I am using the Fabrics-Store.com 3.5 oz linen for my fighting shirts.)

And speaking of shirts, there is plenty of documentation for the ones we make. Pirate/Poet shirts? Not period. Linen poofy shirts? Yes, period.

Here are some images of shirts from the Museum of Bath: http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=013DFA14-32A6-4A33-B3CDA4E8E00C9D49

Believe it or not, the one in the left is a man's shirt. They were worn rather long, and it looks like a women's chemise, but it's not.

Actually, the pattern from the Oak that we use, is a redaction by Mistress Gamble that makes the fitting of the shoulders and the gusset easier. At this point, I have not seen an extant example cut exactly that way, but it works well and it is closer in look to extant pieces than many of the other patterns that you can find on the Internet.

If you want a more period shirt pattern, you may want to look into those in the Tudor Tailor. They are actually very well researched and the end result looks just like the ones in the Museum of Bath examples.
Sep. 26th, 2006 04:55 pm (UTC)
another question that i asked a non-sca seamstress and got a completely bullshit answer on:
how do you solve the armpit-to-boob gap problem without putting in darts or princess seams?
Sep. 26th, 2006 05:07 pm (UTC)
Ahhh!!!!!!! The infamous boob dilemma!

At one point someone told me that doublets were never meant to be worn by women. Bullshit. There is plenty of documentation on that, and you will find a sore complaint about women wearing "male doublets" in Stubbes' Anatomy of Abuses.

But how to solve the boob problem? If you look at your Janet Arnold, in the shape of the black female doublet in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, you will notice that the front of that female doublet is curved. That's what allows for the boobs.

Granted, in that particular one the curve is very slight, since it was made for a very skinny, boobless person. The larger your boobs, the larger the curve.

The main difference between men and women's doublets is in that front. The man's has a curve at the bottom (for the belly) and the woman does like an "S" for the boobs. I did find out by fitting men's doublets, that although peascods were fashionable, there is no way to avoid them when fitting guys since that's their natural shape.

Do not try to cut your doublet following a guys' one exactly. You will have to make concessions for that "S". The best way to go is to cut one a bit larger (especially in the chest area)than what you need, and have a friend fit it for you. For fighting, it will be a little looser to allow for more movement. For not fighting, then you will want it tight and bone it. I like to add a lacing strip in the inside to my non-fighting doublets, and then button holes. (See the Janet Arnold pattern for the above mentioned doublet.)

One must remember that in period, doublets were either boned, or worn with a corset underneath, which helped to solve the boob dilemma. Fencing doublets are not boned, but can be adjusted.

(And darts are baaaaad juju!)

I hope this helps.
Sep. 26th, 2006 08:23 pm (UTC)
what about when you've got wrinkles at the armpit? there's a picture of what i'm talking about halfway down this page. maddeningly, she says "Tell-tale wrinkles at the arm and chest show that the armseye needs to be opened up more," but gives no instructions on how to open up the armscye.

(when the sleeve isn't on, it makes the gap i mentioned earlier. i have the same problem with my tank tops.)
Sep. 26th, 2006 08:34 pm (UTC)
Okay, that's easier. First of all, you want to make those changes, if at all possible, with the mock-up. Fit the mock-up of the doublet while wearing the shirt that you are going to wear underneath. That will help you get the correct fit, since that's what it will look like in the end.

Put your mock-up together, and try it on. If you have those wrinkles (and this not only happens with doublets, but with any kind of sleeved garment too), cut some "tabs" in the armhole, widening it, until you don't see any wrinkles.

That will be the armseye that you'll want in your final version (and don't forget that when you cut your doublet, you will need to provide for seam allowances).

I hope that this makes sense. It is easier to demonstrate it in person.
( 6 comments — Leave a comment )

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