belfebe (belfebe) wrote,

Oh, LJ, how much I love thee...

Well, I'm back from the land of the semi-dead. More than a week with a nasty bronchitis took away all my will to post.

But I'm feeling better now.

(I feel happy!!!)

(I think I'll go for a walk.)

However, amidst the haze of medication and fatigue, I learned that spammers love blogs.

That is, blogs that are not LiveJournal.

Imagine that!

Currently, I have this journal, my costuming website (which includes a blogging section), and my photography/travel blog. The latter two are powered by WordPress, and I adore the platform.

Having said that, I have noticed that spammers loooove to leave stupid little messages in the hope that you think it's a real comment and not spam. Now, how stupid do you think that bloggers are? Geez!

Thank goodness for spam filters and Akismet!

So yeah, after we have bitched about the changes in LJ, I have a sense of community here that I don't have anywhere else. Plus, I have no spammers.

So yeah, the bulk of my blogging will remain firmly here, with my specialty stuff in the other two. (Plus, my costuming site was never intended to become a blog anyway.)

Yeah, that will work.

In other news, I am almost done with the infamous green doublet made out of remnant wool. I am really pleased with it. Why? Because every time I make one, I experiment with techniques in order to get it closer to reproduction quality.

I remember that early in my costuming "career," someone told me that doublets had never been intended to be worn by women. At the time, this made sense to me since my frame of mind was fixed on male fighting doublets. And fitting a doublet taking into account unbound boobs was an incredible challenge for me. (By unbound, I mean uncorseted. Modern bras don't count.)

As time went by, I realized (like many others have done before me), that doublets were indeed meant to be worn by women. It is simply that our minds are tuned to 21st Century's silhouettes and techniques. And you cannot fit a proper doublet utilizing that mindset.

For one thing, female doublets were very structured. This is true as well for men's. The main thing is that you would wear a corset or kirtle underneath. This flattens the girls and allows you to fit it better. Additionally, if you look at the extant pieces, like the famous women’s embroidered velvet doublet of c. 1585 – preserved in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, you may notice that said doublet was both boned and laced.

What does this mean? Well, I had my theory that this particular type of doublet was self-supporting and that it would do away with the need of a pair of bodies (corset) underneath. Nowadays, I am not so sure.

At any rate, it might work as a self-supporting garment if you were extremely petite and no more than an A cup, but I still think that there's a good chance that you might have to wear a stiffened foundation underneath anyway. After all, Eleanora de Toledo was extremely petite (not to mention emanciated due to her last illness), and she still was buried with a bodice under her now famous gown. Granted, this is a doublet and Eleanora's was a gown, but the principle of cut and construction is quite similar.

Because Eleanora's red velvet bodice was so decayed, it was impossible to figure out how it was stiffened. But it would have had some stiff canvas interlining it at the very least.

EDIT: The Eleonora de Toledo bodice and gown deserves a much longer entry of its own. We don't know if it was stiffened or not, although it may have had padding. This could be for shaping of for warmth. I just don't want to give the wrong idea there. Like I said, this is a post from my lunch hour, and not meant as a full article.

Anywhoo, I decided to build my green doublet pretty much like the extant piece in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum. Not identical, though. The end result looks more like the love child of the aforementioned doublet and the 1590's Andaluz doublet from the Museo del Traje in Madrid. It's coming along very nice.

A final word, this is a topic that deserves its own article and pics, but I am writing in my lunch hour and just sharing some concepts. I'll be wearing the entire ensemble, including the green doublet, this Saturday at KASF. And I won't make any promises, since I've been incredibly short of time, but I do intend to write a full article and post it on my costuming site at a later date.

And that's all she wrote.
Tags: blogging, costuming
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